Biking in Napa and Sonoma: Sip and Cycle in Calistoga and Healdsburg

I knew I could make the move from New York City to San Francisco the moment I first laid eyes on Napa Valley. It felt like a wonderland to me, a spot of much-needed European charm and pastoral quietude just a quick hour down the road from the hustle and bustle of the city.

And now three years into my great California adventure, I have developed my way of enjoying Napa and Sonoma. Much like how Coloradans debate the relative merits of competing ski resorts, we here in the Bay Area enjoy holding forth about the "right way" to explore the wine country. There are two valleys to choose from, at least 10 quaint towns, and a huge variety of activities, including hiking, biking, wine tasting, gourmet dining, air ballooning, spa going, and more.

As a green traveler and someone who enjoys a little tipple now and then, I prefer to go wine tasting on bikes. Not only do you get to appreciate the jaw-dropping beauty of the region but all members of your group can taste the fruits of the farmers' labor, so to speak. Now just to be clear, you can technically get a DUI for operating a bike while intoxicated, so be sure to sip and be sensible!

Many towns in the wine country have shops that rent bikes, but the quality of the experience varies widely. My two favorite towns to sip and cycle in are Calistoga and Healdsburg, with the grand prize going to Calistoga.

Calistoga is a funky little town with a decidedly hippie feel--setting it apart from some of the tonier villages in the area like Yountville and St. Helena. Known for its hot springs and mud baths, Calistoga has long been in the shadows of its more popular neighbors. But what the town lacks in buzz, it gains in serenity and authenticity.

We rented our bikes from Calistoga Bike Shop and the awesome staff there quickly customized a route for us. We told them we wanted to stay away from traffic, we wanted to visit boutique wineries, and we needed to be back in a few hours. What seemed like a tall order was swiftly accommodated and we were soon on our way.

We pedaled through winding back roads and enjoyed Napa's blissfully mild weather and sweeping vistas. Plus, each bike is outfitted with a four-bottle wine carrier on the back so you can not just taste delicious vintages but bring them home too.

Another great spot for biking is the extremely charming town of Healdsburg. Block for block it's prettier and more developed than Calistoga and it boasts luxury amenities that feel worlds away from the mud baths of that funky hollow.

We always rent our bikes from Wine Country Bikes, where they even provide showers for those looking to put in a full day of biking, pull a quick change, and head out to a dazzling dinner. In general I usually prefer the laidback feel of Sonoma wineries, but I'm afraid the primary biking trail near Healdsburg has grown a bit choked with traffic lately. However, in the low season, Healdsburg is still a good option and provides a little more action in the evening, making it a better choice for those looking for a full weekend experience.

But no matter what city or what valley you choose to explore, the wine country is the ultimate day trip and a must-do for any vacation to San Francisco. The best time of year to visit is after the "crush" season, when the area is mobbed with oenophiles participating in grape stomps. Crush usually winds down by mid-October, when the leaves on the vines are changing for the fall, the weather is sunny, dry, and mild, and you'd be hard-pressed to find a prettier, more serene place anywhere in the world. The spring is also nice, once the leaves return to the vines, but I would avoid the summer months, when the wine country is overrun with visitors once again.