Ah, Colombia: perfectly preserved colonial cities, a salsa beat for every street, a vibrant mountain capital, vine-covered jungles, and pounds and pounds of that white...sand.
I just got back from the South American country, and any remnant worries of a drug-laden danger zone were shattered the moment I landed in Cartagena’s balmy Caribbean embrace. As I traveled around for 11 days, reminders of the troubles that make American news reports were few and far between, and proof that Colombia deserves its nascent reputation as a traveler’s paradise was everywhere. And I felt safe 100% of the time.
My advice? Go now! Bogota is a 5-hour, under-$400 (round-trip, including taxes and fees) flight from both New York and Los Angeles; Colombia’s in the same time zone as the East Coast of the U.S.; the dollar goes far (beer-for-a-quarter, days-for-a-Benjamin far); and even tourist towns are still under-traveled, meaning you’ll have the stunning sights mostly to yourself. And more than anywhere I’ve been, Colombia is full of surprises--I was introduced to customs, foods, and places I’d never even heard of, every single day.
I hope you're hooked, because I have six picks for must-sees I'm dying to share:
Cartagena
Take a stroll atop the Spanish settlement’s totally intact walls (and return at night, when one section morphs into a bar). Wander its cobblestoned streets and lively plazas. Watch ceviche being made everywhere, and eat lots of it. Lie on the beach at Bocagrande and get yourself a feast at Bony’s fish shack and a $4 sunscreen massage.
Volcan de Loto El Totumo
Ranking up there with the most bizarre things I’ve ever experienced, this volcano welcomes visitors into its spewing center for a mud bath. Jump in for a hilarious 45-minute “swim” and massage, and then head to the lake below, where a local will take it upon herself to clean you. Weird and completely worth it.
Parque Nacional Tayrona
Hike the beautiful trails of this national park until you reach the Caribbean and its accommodations areas. Snag a hammock-mosquito-net set for the night (alternately, you can rent an ecohab or cabana if one is free), and then head to the beach. Hike from beach to beach until you find a spot that suits you, and break open a coconut for your afternoon snack.
Bogota
Start your visit atop Monserrate, the 10,300-foot peak that crowns the city, and you’ll understand why Bogota can be anything to anyone: it’s huge. So, a picturesque old town? Check. A collection of SoHo-style neighborhoods for trend-watching? Check. A metropolis of tall buildings and slick businesspeople? Check. Museum miles? Check. It’s all here, enjoyed all the more over a bowl of ajiaco, a cup of chocolate santafereño, and some slices of fruits you’ve never seen before (lulu is delicious).
Zipaquira
Visit as a day trip from Bogota, or stay the night to soak up its charms, but don’t miss this lovely town’s main claim to fame: an underground salt cathedral. Even more impressive, in a way, is the "route of the miners," a tour that will have you mining for salt in a hardhat and gloves while simulating a life in the dark.
Carnaval de Barranquilla
Last, but not least, if you can make it in February, visit Shakira’s hometown for the continent’s second-largest pre-Lent celebration. Watch as contingents from as far away as Miami shimmy and shake down parade routes, and as salsa stars take over the city’s stadium for marathon concerts. Big as it is, the celebration maintains a surprisingly local, homegrown feel. Just watch out for the flying foam.
